This association no doubt came about as tattooing evolved from a method of identifying criminals and possibly even the lower classes hundres of years ago to becoming fashionable among those same people – the exact people from whom the modern Yakuza evolved. As the evolution of attitudes continued, tatooing became an integral part of the underworld in Japan as far back as the 17th century. The true evolution of this fashion, however, goes back much further.
Prehistory: An Emerging Tradition of Tattooing
Many archaeological finds in Japan may suggest that tattooing was part of the culture of the Jomon period from 11,000 BC. Certainly by the Yayoi era of 300BC to 300AD tattooing was entrenched.
While the earliest date of tattoos in Japan is somewhat contentious among scholars who study the prehistory of the area, there is almost unanimous agreement that tattoos had become a significant part of the culture by 500 BC – prior to the Yayoi period. The cultural implications of tattooing at this early stage are almost impossible to know, but it does establish that tattooing in Japan goes back further than almost any other area in the world.
Pre-Edo Period: Tattooing Finds a Purpose
Evidence from China suggests that as early as the third century, tattooing was being used in parts of the ‘Kingdom of Wa’ (Japan) to denote social rank.
Later in the 8th century, the oldest book of classical Japanese history – the Nohon Shoki, relates the story of the Emperor punishing a traitor by having his face tattooed.
The Japanese had, by this time, come under the influence of Confucian ideas which suggested that one should not intentionally alter or harm the body. This set to further ostracize those with tattoos.
As time progressed, criminals found themselves being punished more and more by the branding of a tattoo bar or circle on their arm – something that had become well-entrenched by the Edo Period. Certain areas of the country also employed tattoos to keep track of the Japanese untouchable class (Hinin) and even lower caste villageres (barakumin). Inevitably, such people found an identity in their exclusion from main stream society and began to embrace tattooing.
Edo Period: The Golden Age of Irezumi
While it started out with people embellishing their criminal bars and circles with decorative additions, the fashion soon spread to courtesans and even their lovers as well as other lower caste people without necessarily a criminal background. As the modern Yakuza emerged during the Edo period out of loose associations of gamblers (bakuto), outcasts (Burakumin) and criminals, it was only natural that many of their members would identify with tattoos as they had themselves come from criminals and the underclasses who has previously been forced into tattooing as a means of identification.
The Edo period also saw the tattooing of criminals, previously reserved for mainly serious crimes, exctend to less serious transgressions. This further served to exclude minor-criminals from society and push them into the arms of criminal groups who were coming to see tattooing as a sign of affiliation.
The popularity in the late Edo period of several tales regarding criminal-heroes also saw an increased sense of self-awareness and worth among criminal elements and a corresponding boom in the popularity of irezumi.
With the growth in the popularity of tattooing, the master tattooists (Horishi) came to be revered among members of the trade.
The Rise of the Horishi
As tattooing began to become entrenched in the shady world of Japan’s under-classes and criminal groups, demand for tattoos increased and naturally people skilled in tattooing became professional. The masters of the craft were known as ‘Horishi.’ So respected are Horishi still today, that in all cases they are referred to as ‘Sensei’ or ‘master’ and it is completely at their discretion as to whether they choose to tattoo an individual. The customer must show complete deference to these master-craftsmen.
These master-tattooists used bamboo piercing to apply complex designs and pictograms of carp, tigers, flowers, dragons or even hero figures from Japanese history and culture – generally from the Edo period. These traditional designs, hand-picked by a Horishi, are referred to as ‘horimono’ as opposed to ‘irezumi.’
While Horishi still exist today, their designs can cost up to $30,000 and take up to 5 years to complete. This has led to an increase, even among Yakuza, of using modern tattooists and tattoo guns. The pain involved in getting a horimono means that up to 80% of people do not complete their designs.
After the design is completed, the customers will often revisit their Horishi in groups for reunions – perhaps another reason that Horishi are careful about who they choose to tattoo and a tradition that has helped the close-knit culture of the Yakuza to remain so.
Meiji Period: An Artform Threatened
When the Japanese government sought to ban tattoos at the beginning of the Meiji period, this simply served to entrench tattooing as tool used by criminals as a sign of loyalty to their fellows. The fashion continued to evolve, largely thanks to the influence of foreigners who often sought out Horishi for tattoos of their own. King George of England even had a Dragon tattooed on his arm while visiting as a prince.
While irezumi extending from forearms to thighs were prevalent before the Meiji period, it was the clear discrimination experienced during Meiji that helped cement irezumi as a way by which Yakuza expressed loyalty to their standing and their boss.
Even so, horishi had their books of designs burned by Meiji officials and had to remain largely underground until after World War 2!
Modern Times: The Re-emergence of Irezumi
It was the occupying allied forces that legalized tattooing again after the Second World War. These days, tattoos are still largely frowned upon in Japan owing to their associatio with Yakuza and the lower classes. Clear discrimination is still shown to those who have tattoos with, for example, many bath houses banning anyone with a tattoo.
A more recent fashion in tattooing in Japan has seen many youth adopt western style tatoos (tatu as distinct from irezumi). On the other hand, the visual stylings of irezumi have become popular in other parts of the world and continue to grow in popularity.
With the growing popoularity of Japanese tattooing in the west as well as at home, it is difficult to see the art form ever dying out, but on the other hand, social attitudes in the home of Irezumi still have a long way to go.